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NEW INSTRUCTIONS 



FOR 



CUTTING CHILDREN'S CLOTHING 



BY 



D. W. MOODY'S 



CELEBRATED 



STAR SYSTEM of SQUARE MEASUREMENT 



This Improvement also gives Cuts and Instructions showing how to Out- 
skirts of Dresses, Gabrielle Wrappers, Loose-Fitting Dresses, 
Princess Dresses, Cloaks, Boys' Coats, and all similar 
Garments for' Ladies and Children. 









D. W. MOODY, o 

Inventor Star System of Square Measurement. 






GENERAL OFFICES : New York, San Francisco and St. Louis, 

L. Hoffmann & Co., ! GenT Agts., - - - St. Louis, Mo. 

James A. & W. S. Wilson, G-enT Agts. for Paciffc Coast, r g an Francisco Cal. 

(COPYRIGHT SECURED BY D. W. MOODY, 1879.) 



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FOR CUTTING CHILDREN'S DRESSES. 

Draft fho back samp as for adults, with few ex- 
ceptions— the first is that dot made on line 5 for 
spring- in the back is J inch instead of i inch. 
Draw line 8 in back, drafting- for children, only } 
inch longer than shoulder measure instead of h 
inch. Second, lines 12, 13 and 11- are drawn 
eye. They need but little spring. Third, see the perforated dots showing the lap in the back, and 
also showing that you must allow for the hem in the back: the notches running to the waist showing that 
the disss should be clipped to make it set well: the notches above show the same. Fourth, draft the 
front dp wn t° l' ne I" same as for adults, omitting lines 11 and 12 and drawing line 11 in place of line 13. 
Fifth, (see children's Dart Calculation and get the amount for Gabrielle Dart. Sixth, if for a medium sized 
child, make a dot lj|- inches from line 1 on line 11 or waist line. Seventh, make a dot on same line for size 
of dart. Eighth, if Dart Calculation gives anything to be added to front drafting, make the dot without 
moving scale. Ninth, make a dot in center of line 8 and one in center of Dart. Tenth, Draw a line from 
center of line 8 to center of Dart. Eleventh, draw line 13 from line 4 to outside of 'Dart, same as in cut. 
Twelfth, line 14 same as in cut. Thirteenth, line 15 square from waist down. Fourteenth, line Hi square 
from waist down. Fifteenth, lire 17 so it will cross line 16 eleven to twelve inches below waist line. 
Sixteenth, line 18 as you see it in cut. Seventeenth, lines outside of 18 and G take the place of (i and 18 
when the Dart Calculatijn gives anything to be added to front drafting. 



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f-fi-fSt-r9T-96-08-6-0l— 'Suianavjd aoj miisbok 



DIRECTIONS FOR CUTTING A PRINCESS DRESS. 

First, trace out your lining for the waist. Second, baste the front piece of your lining on 
the goods. Third, measure frorn the waist down the front the length of your skirt measure. 
Fourth, square a line across the bottom of the goods. Fifth, measure down the opposite side, 
and then baste the under arm gore lining on your goods and measure down side next to front the 
length you made long side of front piece : then square a line across bottom same as in front. 
Seventh, measure down opposite side to the square line from waist. Eighth, commence on side 
form next to back; baste your lining on goods and measure down short side the same length you 
made long side of last piece, and square your line same as before. Ninth, if cutting a common 
house dress add about two inches to long side of this piece. Tenth, cut the back the same way. 
Eleventh, see the instructions showing the width of each piece at bottom of dress. 

WIDTH OF EACH PIECE OP A PRINCESS DRESS AT THE BOTTOM. 

Front, from 12 to 13 

Under Arm Gore . . '. 11 to 12 

Side form next to Back ' 16 to 18 

Back 10 to 12 

HOW TO CUT A POLONAISE. 

First, trace out your linings same as any other dress. Second, baste the front and under arm 
gore on your goods, letting them meet about 9 to 10 inches below the waist line, then cut the 
space out between; them: in sewing them together always let the seam' run down at least twelve 
inches below the waist. The back may be cut the same way. 

S5S" Always ask the Agent for a copy of a train skirt pattern. 

A WORD OP ADVICE TO Li> DIES USING THE CELEBRATED STAR 

SYSTEM. 

One of the most important things is to always test your drafting before cutting your garment out. 
I could give you the names of hundreds of ladies that have had 3 r ears of experience in dress-making, 
and after trying the Star System say they have learned to save themselves at least one-half the 
work that they formerly done in cutting and fitting. I specially request the ladies using the Star 
System to always be careful in taking measures. 

FOR CUTTING A BOY'S COAT. 

Always allow from 2A to 3 inches in front if the coat is to be double breasted; if not, li inches 
is sufficient. If the boy is from 6 to 10 years old make the waist line in the back 4J inches from 
line one. If for a small boy or a veiw large boj', use your own judgment in regard to waist line in 
the back. We only draw 10 lines in the front in drafting for a boy's coat. The back is drafted 
almost the same as for adults. By giving it a few moments attention you will have no trouble. 
-¥et* should always hare some guud fashion book, which will give you great help in cutting. I 
would say in conclusion that you would do well to take the Star Fashion Book and also the Star 
Patterns which will be out about March 1880. Ask the agent about them. The Star Patterns 
will be the most complete and most perfect patterns in the world. Why is this ? we expect you to 
ask at once. First, every pattern is cut from measures taken of some lady or child. Second, 
every envelope has full instructions for taking measures. Third, each pattern has the measure it 
is cut from printed on the envelope. 

Ask the agent what is the latest style of plaiter now in use. Agents will always be posted in 
regard to plaiters, and I think you will always find them willing to give you any advice you may 
need in regard to them, and manj' other fine novelties. 

FOR TRACING GABRIELLE. 

First, for front Jpiece trace line 11 or waist line, to lines 13 and 17. Second, line 1 the full 
length. Third, line 7 to line 8. Fourth, line 8 to line 12. Fifth, lines 12, 13 and 17. 

Piece next to front first waist line from junctions of lines 14 and 15 to lines 6 and 18, or lines 
outside of lines and 18. Second, lines 8, 12, 14 and 15. Third, lines to 10, 6 and 18. Fourth, 
always be careful if lines are drawn outside of lines 6 and 18 to trace them in place of lines 6 and 
1«. Always notice that the front of this dress should be cut on the fold of the goods. Trace the 
back same as for adults. 

TO CUT A GABRIELLE WRAPPER. 

; If this dress is tight fitting, make the drafting same as for the Princess dress with few exceptions. 

First, draw the Gabrielle in place of the front Dart. You should always deduct about J inch from 

the back Dart, and take the same out in your Gabrielle Dart. Second, draw the Gabrielle Dart 

same as for children. 

Width of each piece of the Gabrielle Wrapper at the bottom: 

Front piece should be from 5^ to 6£ 

Second " " 6* to 7J 

Third " " 11 to 12 

Fourth " " 16 to 18 

Fifth " " 10 to 12 

If this Dress is Loose Fitti.no , leave out the back Dart and add the looseness same as for the Cloak. 

FOR CUTTING CLOAKS. 

Draft the front two bust numbers larger and make a dot about f of an inch from Line 6 on Line 
5 in front drafting ; then draw a line from Lines 10 and 6 to dot made { of an inch from Line 6 on 
Line 5. For a cloak you leave all the Darts out. 

TO DRAFT THE BACK FOR A CLOAK. 

Make the drafting just the same as for the Dress, wifth few exceptions. First, is to give the 
looseness by making a dot ; J of an inch on Line 5, out from the junctions of lines 9 and 14, and 
drawing a Hue from the junctions of Lines 9 and 15 to dot made on Line 5. Second, draw Line 
14 from said dot so it will cross Line 14 about 12 to 14 inches below the waist line. 




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The top piece, which has one star in the center, shows the drop and commencement of it; the 
spring should be drawn from the full spring of the round point of the scale. You see just the 
drop it has at the left hand corner is \ inch. The numbers under and over the 'star show the 
width of this piece at top and bottom of the dress; the variation is made by the cutter, which 
depends on the size of the lady you are cutting for. 




This piece has two stars, and is cut the same as the one above. The numbers under and 
over the stars show the width at top and bottom. This piece is drawn with only half the curve 
of the round point of the scale. 



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10 to 12 







dies wide at the top. This piece is drawn with but 



This piece has three stars, and is cut straight across the ^ ^^J m[ „, tlus iece . 

little spring. The numbers under and over the stars show the width oi the bottom ana i i 



DART 




FOR CPIILDI^EU. 



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First — Amount under K is Width of Back, or the length of Line 5 in Back 
Drafting. 

Second — Amount under B is Bust measure. W is Waist measure. D is 
^amount to come out in the Gabrielle Dart. A is amount to be added to Front 
Drafting. To add this amount, make a dot just the distance given by the Calcu- 
lator from Line 6, on Line 5, and draw a Line from the junctions of Lines 6 and 
10 to Dot made on Line 5. 

First find the Bust Measure, then the Waist Measure, When you have the 
Bust and Waist Measures together, you will always find the remainder of your 
Measure in the columns opposite. 

You MAY, AT ANY time, if }^ou think the Back of the Dress is too Wide, deduct 
from the Back, and add the same amount to the Front .Drafting. 

Copyright secured D. W. MOODY, 1879. lie it remembered, that this is separately copy-rigliled 

by D. W. MOODY, From the Dress-Cutting System. 



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D. W. MOODY, Inventor. 



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IFOIR, OHIXjIDIR/EIN". 



First — Amount under K is Width of Back, or the length of Line 5 in Back 
Drafting. 

Second — Amount under B is Bust measure. W is Waist measure. D is 
amount to come out in the Gabrielle Dart. A is amount to be added to Front 
Drafting. To add this amount, make a dot just the distance given by the Calcu- 
lator from Line 6, on Line 5, and draw a Line from the junctions of Lines 6 and 
10 to Dot made on Line 5. 

First iind the Bust Measure, then the Waist Measure, When you have the 
Bust and Waist Measures together, you will always find the remainder of your 
Measure in the columns opposite. 

You may, at any time, if you think the Back of the Dress is too Wide, deduct 
from the Back, and add the same amount to the Front Drafting. 

o 

Copyright secured D- W. MOODY, 1879. Be it remembered, that this is separately copy-riglited 

by D.W.MOODY, From the Dress-Cutting System. 



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Dar£ Calculator /or D. W. Moody's Dressmakers' Star System 0/ Square Measurement. 

I). W. MOODY, Inventor. 



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Ijs 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




013 973 109 8 



